The world of facial peels is constantly evolving, with new trends focused on better customization, less downtime, and combination treatments.
Here are some of the new and prominent advancements in professional and at-home facial peels:
Advanced Peel Formulations and Techniques
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Bio-Stimulation Without Peeling: Newer professional peels, such as BioRePeel and PRX-T33, are gaining popularity. They use high concentrations of acids like Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) combined with ingredients like hydrogen peroxide or antioxidants to stimulate skin regeneration and collagen production without the traditional, noticeable skin shedding and downtime associated with deep peels.
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Targeted Pigment Control: Treatments like the Elaine Brennan Skin Renewal Peeling System, Cosmelan and Dermamelan are advanced, medical-grade peels specifically designed to dramatically reduce severe or persistent hyperpigmentation and melasma by targeting melanin production at the cellular level and continue to suppress melanin production with at-home skincare. At-home brightening peel pads like the Tone It Down, Brightening Pads by Ileana Moreno Clinical, combines the botanical skin tone brightening ingredients of Kojic Acid, Arbutin and Bearberry along with skin protective antioxidants to soothe the skin and help with redness.
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"Smarter, Not Harsher" Peels: There's a shift towards using more intelligent and personalized peel blends with ingredients like the Acid Complex(AHA, PHA, LHA), growth factors, peptides and botanical extracts that offer targeted exfoliation without compromising the skin barrier. This often involves a layered approach where multiple acids are applied in stages likethe Lami Peel by DM. CELL, a next-generation professional peeling treatment known for being gentle and effective, often marketed for achieving a "glass skin" effect with minimal to no downtime.
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Microbiome & Barrier Support: Some innovative peels, again, like the Lami Peel by DM. CELL, are formulated to not only renew the skin but also restore the skin's natural microbiome, which is essential for overall skin health and healing with ingredients like the patented BIOTILYS®(developed in France) and probiotics.
Innovative Ingredient and Delivery Systems
While traditional acids like glycolic, lactic, salicylic and retinol remain popular, some newer ingredients are being integrated :
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Mandelic Acid: An Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) with a larger molecule, making it gentler and slower to penetrate, often favored for sensitive skin, those with rosacea, and for improving hyperpigmentation.
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beta-Lipohydroxy Acid (LHA): A salicylic acid derivative praised for its efficient exfoliation at low concentrations, while also having antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-comedogenic properties.
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Phytic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, and Ferulic Acid: These are being increasingly used, often in combination peels, for their antioxidant, brightening, and exfoliating benefits.
- Spicules or Liquid Microneedling: microscopic, needle-like structures, typically derived from fresh water sponges, triggers skin's natural healing response to dormant dermal cells, promoting synthesis of new collagen and elastin improving skin texture and tone as well as acne and pigmentation.
In-Office Combination Procedures
The trend is moving toward combining peels with other treatments to enhance results and target multiple concerns simultaneously:
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Peels with Microneedling: Combining a chemical peel with microneedling can increase the penetration of the peel's ingredients and promote greater collagen production.
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Layered Peels: Applying multiple different acids or peel solutions in sequence during a single session to treat a broader range of skin concerns, such as using a salicylic peel followed by a TCA peel.
- Prepping with Dermaplaning and or Co2 Carboxy treatments : By physically removing the surface layer of dead skin, Dermaplaning ensures a much more even and deeper penetration in the skin and CO2 Carboxy increases blood flow and boost the delivery of oxygen and nutrients, accelerating healing, downtime, boosting cellular health, maximizing the benefits of the peels collagen-stimulating action.
To learn more about what peels may be right for you, Book a Consultation.